Vintage cuff-links are vintage, for the most part, because very few shirt manufacturers make shirts that require cuff-links any more. There are a few however, and you can still buy new cuff-links at department stores or jewelry stores, but there is not much in the way of choice. One place where the requirement for cuff-links has not disappeared is the tuxedo. The formal attire of tuxedo or frock coat and morning pants still involves a shirt without buttons, requiring studs and cuff-links. These are usually provided at the time of purchase or hire, since it is impossible to wear the included shirt without the extra hardware.

Historically, collar and cuffs were not attached to the shirt. They were separate pieces of cloth or celluloid to facilitate the laundry process. When a man put on a shirt, he added the cuff by putting a cuff-link through both ends of the cuff and shirt sleeves in the button holes provided. The collar was added by using a stud to trap both ends of the collar and both sides of the neck of the shirt with one piece of hardware. Frequently the outside of the cuff-links and collar stud were decorated to mask their utilitarian nature to some extent.

There are two kinds of cuff-link, one with a rigid yoke from the outside link to a toggle for the inside cuff, or two buttons linked by a small ring like the jump rings on jewelry. The solid cuff-link is probably the more common cuff-link for men, while the joined buttons seem to be mostly for women. The cuff-links for women’s shirts might match the rest of the buttons on the shirt, or be a fancier version of the shirt button. Men’s cuff-links were more likely to be matched to a tie clasp and/or money clip. For shirts requiring studs, the studs and cuff-links were the same design except the studs are much smaller than the cuff-links, to match the much smaller button holes on a shirt meant for studs.

Vintage cuff-links are available at antique stores and other places where the treasures of the past are for sale. You might find them at flea markets or rummage sales, but generally you need to look at better establishments for these pieces of jewelry. In the past cuff-links were made from fine gold and included gems, for those with expensive tastes and money to burn, although such a display was considered gauche. Vintage cuff-links will have the designs of the time of their making, so you can find Art Deco and Arte Nouveau cuff-links as well as the plainer modern versions.

Collecting cuff-links would be a relatively uncommon past time. I can’t imagine that many people collect them, so you may have the field to yourself locally. Check auction houses in your area for their schedule of auctions, especially those that include jewelry. Estate sales will be a good place to look for cuff-links. Let the local antique dealers know that you are looking for cuff-links and they will find some for you as well. Don’t forget current cuff-links, because soon they will be vintage also. Your friends and family will probably provide those to you as gifts as soon as they find out you are collecting, however.

Enjoy this new world of collecting.

* * * Read about other vintage jewellery or an amethyst necklace. * * *

* * * Monet jewelry provides an opportunity to collect better costume jewelry. * * *

Go to the Table of Contents to see all the topics covered so far.

Click American collectibles to go to the latest entry on this site.